席梦麟:上海崇明国际生态岛之往事5月

时间:2021/8/18 17:31:33  作者:席梦麟女士  来源:徐赐阳中国  查看:687  评论:0

Chapter 5   哇!白色的小橘花开了

 

五一橘华胜群芳,

立夏蚕豆煮笋汤,

慈母草头煎饼忙,

小满百谷羡麦芒。

 

席梦麟:上海崇明国际生态岛之往事5月

 

Chapter 5 Wow! Here bloom the little white tangerine blossoms!

May 1st sees the tangerine flower stands out,

The Start of Summercooks thefava beansand bamboo shoots,

Mother busily prepares the alfalfa pancakes,

Small Full Grain finds wheat matured in the fields.

 

五一是随着桔子花的成丛怒放一并而至的,“孟夏之日,天地始交,万物并秀”的群芳争“蜂”此刻也渐入佳境。素雅白净的五瓣花缓缓绽放,露出酝酿、培育了多日的嫩黄花蕊和姣美花柱,三五米开外都能嗅得这盛放花期的馨香。

 

    May dayholiday is accompanied by the blooms of orange blossom in the island where bees are busy picking the honey from enormous number of flowers. The elegant five-petal blossoms reveal its yellow hearts within the white petals,whose beauty and fragrance can be enjoyed three or five meters away.

 

其实孩子们最爱的倒是它含苞待放时的花骨朵儿:气味若金桂般幽微馥郁,身型似玉兰般纤长舒匀,色泽如栀子般鲜妍可人。感谢这位来自人间四月天的轻灵使者,在五月万紫千红到来伊始先盛况如许地暖了场。

 

     In fact, its flower buds are children's favorite.The smell is as soft as the golden laurel, the body is magnolia-like slim and smooth, and the color is as bright as a gardenia. Thanks to this flower messenger who warms up the beginning of May so that all the other blossoms are soon to be in full bloom.

 

崇明人爱种桔子的传统由来已久,除了口彩,还因为它的花果都芳香怡人,持家的女人在黄梅天等异味较多的日子里就会借助桔子的清新气息遮盖一下便于迎客。所以几乎每家每户的院子里,特别是规划新篱笆围起的菜地,总会提前留一个角落,种上一两棵桔树,有时还会添一棵枇杷或柿子,便于孩子们回家随手摘果子解馋。崇明有首耳熟能详儿歌“吃桔子,剥桔壳,桔壳丢在墙角落”,风靡程度绝对可以和“吃葡萄不吐葡萄皮”的绕口令相媲美,自然也是桔子盛行的写照。

 

    The tradition of Chongming people planting orange treescan be traced back for a long history. In addition to the best wishes it bear, its pleasant scent is also the cure for the musty monsoon season odors. The women who are good at housekeeping, therefore, will always leave a corner in advance for the orange trees and a loquat or a persimmonadditionally as theafter school fruits for the children. Chongming has a children rhyme says "Eat the orange, peel off the orange, peels all get thrown into the wall corner range", which naturally gives an portrait of how popular the oranges are in the island.

 

立夏的鸡鸭鹅蛋在市集里常常会一蛋难求,孩子们胸口挂着妈妈用家里剩余线头而顺手织就的网兜,灌一个精心挑选的禽蛋,就兴奋地上学准备斗蛋了,一路还幻想着恐龙蛋要是出现在上学路上该是多么应景和幸运。斗蛋赛场在中午休息时间可谓全校开花,最终还是某个鹅蛋凭着大个头和劳不可催称霸。

 

     Time flies to the start of summer whenegg are suddenly short of, regardless its mother is chicken, duck or goose eggs.It’s due to the fact that all the children’s chests are hung with aknitted netwhere a carefully selected poultry egg is held.How the kid hadimagined and hoped that the egg be dinosaur’sto win the egg fight of this very day. The so-called egg fightis the competition between two eggs in terms of solidarity and size. In the end, normallycertain goose egg will bethe champion.

 

当晚妈妈就会把网兜里战败而归但所幸完好无损的鸡蛋做一道拿手好菜——竹笋盐齑豆瓣蛋汤。蚕豆此时正当时令,剥去了坚韧的外皮后,把青嫩得发白的豆瓣,和沐过春雨的出土新笋,以及一把崇明经典咸菜“盐齑”,一同清炒,最后和打好的鸡蛋一起煮汤。开锅乘汤的一瞬间,整屋都会瞬间充满冬盐齑和春笋携来的两季陈香,豆瓣则漂浮在汤的表面与蛋花青黄相间,堪称春夏相替的绝佳配色。迫不及待地尝一口咸酸刚好的汤,笋的鲜爽,豆的酥软,盐齑的脆滑,加之蛋花的薄黏,欲罢不能地鼓着腮帮连吞几勺的孩子数不胜数。

 

     In the evening, mothers will make a good dish of the eggs that were defeated but fortunately intact, together with bamboo shoots, broad beans and pickled alfalfa. The delicacy of beans, the freshness of new bamboo shoots unearthed from the spring rain, and the classic salty taste of pickles are fried together and thus merged incredibly congenial. The whole house will instantly be filled with the nice flavor of the soup once presented to the table with its perfect color. Children who can't wait to taste the soup won’t stop swallowing until the mouth full.

 

为了这碗汤,孩子多半会遵守和母亲的约定,乖乖地坐在小板凳上剥蚕豆和竹笋。蚕豆的外壳比豌豆要厚实得多,但是松棉手感很喜人,柔软的外壳撕开之后,掏出蚕豆来,如果炒蚕豆的话工序就会简单很多,只需把蚕豆种子顶端的黑色种脐去掉即可,而煮汤则还得费力把豆子外皮再扯开,取出赤裸的豆瓣。竹笋的剥法则更简单明了,黑黄笋衣褪完后,白嫩的笋肉交给妈妈作切配就万事大吉。

 

    In order to accelerate the soup making, most of the children will reach the agreement with parents by taking the responsibility of peeling off beans and bamboo shoots. The shell of the broad bean is much thicker than the pea, but the inner cotton feel is interesting. Once the soft shell is torn open, the broad bean will be pulled out, then make an effort to take out the naked seeds. As for stripping the bamboo shoots, it is much is simpler and clearer,once finished, one just hand over the white tender bamboo shoots to domestic chefwill do.

 

母亲节直到近些年才流行开来。其实每个五月里,崇明妈妈的身影几乎都会被煎草头饼的油烟所晕染。草头是自孟春起就长得漫天遍野的蔬菜,除了择摘后可以储藏作盐齑的上好原料,还有个绝妙的用处——就是作为煎烧饼的辅料以便口感提鲜,色相生碧,气味充实。对孩子而言,整个过程里最具参与性的就是捏烧饼。首先把草头用开水烫过,便于叶绿素流淌出细胞外,接着混入糯米粉中,擀成一个圆柱形的青色大面团,随后一小团一小团地掐断,每个小团子再捏成小圆子,最后压扁成型。扁化的步骤是孩子们的心头爱,没有了橡皮泥的塑胶怪味和湿泥巴的可疑内在,这番可食用的手工实在值当。煎熟后的烧饼既能保持草头的翠绿本色,又可泛出了糯米的焦香味和灿黄色。一口咬下,即刻会被外脆里糯、咸甜相宜的口味勾起的难舍的食欲。

 

    Mother's Day has just become popular in recent years. En effect, each May will findmaternal figures in the fumes of the alfalfa sautéed pie. Alfalfa is a kind of vegetable that easily plated and can be stored as a good raw material for pickle. But the most wonderful part of it is being an auxiliary material for sautéed pie, whose birth engages children sometimes, especially for the dough making. After cutting the whole dough into small pieces, rolled into roundness before finally pushed flattened. Of course the flattening step is the favorite partof most children. The nice pie not only maintains the greenish grass color, but also retains the scent of the fried glutinous rice.Just onecrispy bite will facilitatethe appetiteincrease.

 

吃饱喝足的五月里迎来了小满。傍晚的风里已经渐渐含了暑气,缓慢升起的姗姗皎月无疑是作业后散步的最佳伴侣。农场开垦的耕地和乡村的自留地种植,区别就在于前者更整齐划一,后者更反应各家生活习性和偏好。而生在乡村,长在农场的孩子则同时见识了两种相映成趣、各有千秋的耕作方式。

 

    The small full (grain) is greeted with suchdelicacies mentioned above. Thus an evening strollwith wind gradually carrying summer heat under the slowly rising moon is undoubtedly a good exercise after homework for most children. By then, one may discover the difference between the cultivation in thefarm and rural land that the former is more uniform, while the latter reflects the living habits and preferences of each family. Hence, the children born in the country and grow up in the farm will see two kinds of farming methods that distinguish each other while remain their own merits.

 

五月的水田里,麦子始终是主角,稻麦两者对于孩子来说,分别在于成熟后的麦芒和稻穗,如若尚不曾抽穗露芒,且忘却时令,两者则仿佛是孪生。信步于田垄间,就会理解“疏影横斜水清浅,暗香浮动月黄昏”的风情不单单适用于梅踪。

 

    In the fields of May, wheat always leads the main role although for most children, the difference between rice and wheat can only be told when they get matured. If they have not yet grown the ear, the two seem to be twins. It’s only by walking between the ridges can oneappreciate the poetic rural scene elaborated and praised so much in the Chinese ancient poetry.

 

目睹着农场里翠墨连天、一望无垠的麦田在起风的刹那此起彼伏,宛如潮水涨退似地伴风摇曳,就不禁要深切感叹“麦浪滚滚”一词的形容是何等贴切。驻足于垄上的顷刻,深觉把田间四溢的芬芳都贪吸入胸腔、深肺直至丹田并停留贮存,方不枉费这沁人心脾的大地馨香。田中不时响起的咕咕低鸣就是野鸡,受到脚步声的警醒后便呼啦啦地一跃而起,飞过八九亩地的距离栖上树颠,方安心。每逢读到英国哈代在《还乡》里形容稻谷丰收时那番对乡野的诚挚欣赏,或者《飘》中傲岸不羁的斯佳丽对土地却如此忠诚地信仰,总相信一定有这么个稻浪、麦浪的感动瞬间是两部名著的写作伏笔。

 

    The viewof farmland withsuch magnificent wheat field whichis rise and fallswith the rhythm of wind, just like the tides, one can't help but deeply convinced by the metaphor “wheat wave”. Moreover, the moment one stands above the field ridge, the fragrance in the field was rush into one’s chest and lungs smoothly. In addition, listen carefully, one can notice the low-pitched voice of pheasant, whichonce alerted by footsteps will jump up and fly over eight or nine acres of land and stay on the tree for relief. It reminds what Thomas Hardy wrote about the UK countryside and the sacred Tara for Scarlett.

 

五月本是这样,把偷采下的桔子花苞放在铅笔盒里试图给橡皮铅笔作香薰,把毛竹林里竹叶覆盖后的竹笋一一搜索停当并预谋着尝鲜的日子和由头,把一鞋盒开始作茧自缚的蚕宝宝置于床边细细观察,念及李商隐“春蚕到死丝方尽”,竟生出少年不知愁滋味的怅惘来。

 

    This is May. The tangerine flower buds are placed in the pencil case to scent the whole stationary. The bamboo shoots covered in bamboo leaves are searched and positioned for future delicacy. The shoebox is the final place for the silkworm baby to complete its transformation to a moth, which makes one feel sentimental just as the famous poem by Li Shang Ying (Tang Dynasty) writes “silkworm won't stop spitting out silk until they die”.


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